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| Evan Sung for The New York Times |
The Restaurant Takeaway column is devoted to restaurant dishes you can make in your own kitchen, tweaked for home cooks.
I didn’t plan to order dessert after my recent lunch at Calliope in the East Village. But the waiter told me the chocolate hazelnut ice cream was extraordinary. I don’t often say no to extraordinary, even when I’m skeptical. Was there really anything that could raise this chocolate hazelnut ice cream that far above the usual stuff?
In a word, yes. And the answer is butter.
It’s what gave the ice cream its voluptuous, velvety texture, almost like frozen chocolate mousse, but denser. It was utterly creamy and completely without ice crystals. The waiter was right.